 The décor of this busy and noisy bistro owned by Michael Cardenas is not like his other restaurants, Sushi Roku, Katana and BOA Steakhouse. It is in fact rather unattractive, as the only decorative element is a picture of a big ox that rests on a wall. The open kitchen features chef Joseph Centeno orchestrating his team of cooks. He has composed a very eclectic menu with no unity and lots—perhaps too many—fried items. Over the years that we have been following him at local restaurants, we have seen him more creative, but we know that Cardenas wanted Lazy Ox Canteen to be simple. We started with marinated sardines, probably the best dish (but why does it come with fried vegetables?) besides the braised beef tongue ravioli. Then came a fried soft shell crab, fried veal sweetbreads, fried pig ear, and fried broccoli. Even the dashi marinated yellowtail was accompanied by hash browns! We did not get a chance to try any of the few menu items that don't read "crispy," "fried" or "fritters," like the roasted mussels, the escabeche of duck breast and leg confit or the 7 oz. burger with Cantal cheese. No particular attention is given to the presentation of the dishes, including the indifferent rice pudding dessert. The wine list is short, but sake, shochu and some interesting beers are available.
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Go behind the scenes in the kitchen! Watch our exclusive interview with chef Joseph Centeno on GAYOT.com’s Youtube channel.
Splurging at top-rated restaurants is fun for special events, but where can you go for a good quality meal that won't break the bank? Gather the change out of your piggy bank and sofa cushions and take it to one of our selections for the best cheap eats in your area. Also, check out our picks for the Top 40 Cheap Eats in the U.S.
