* Click here for rating key
Le Coq d'Argent Restaurant Review: This is the place for summer al fresco dining, when guests are whisked up in a glass lift to the top of James Stirling's pink stone bulwark opposite the Bank of England onto an outdoor roof terrace. Looking out over the rooftops, you do feel like a Master of the Universe, which is what most of the customers aspire to be. The wood-panelled restaurant is aimed at high rollers, not all of them male, but all comfortable in surroundings that suggest that money and masculinity go handsomely together. The menu is correspondingly traditional and very well done: huge plates of fruits de mer, dressed crab, lamb cutlets, beef fillet with foie gras, caviar, oysters and lobster mayonnaise. The fine selection of French cheeses is a good alternative to desserts. Staff, in a hierarchy of uniforms from white tunics to hotel personnel jacket and tie, is plentiful and well-drilled. Set 2-course lunch £25, 3 courses £28.