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Le Grand Vefour Restaurant Review: It's not a wax museum, but you can soak up a bit of French history in this institution where Bonaparte and Josephine, Victor Hugo, Cocteau and Malraux among a panoply of others have dined, and whose names are to be seen on the engraved copper plates above the terribly appropriate red velvet benches. Guy Martin's menu grows more inventive by the day, with such exceptional creations as almond-milk flan in sorrel bouillon, lightly cooked salmon terrine with eggplant aspic, and basil shortbread topped with candied fennel. The milk-fed calf's sweetbreads studded with truffles and gently cooked with a broad bean jus, though more in keeping with traditional home-style fare, are a true chef d'oeuvre. Hearty Alpine offerings have their place as well (Martin is a native of Savoie): how about a double chop of farm-bred pork swaddled in smoky bacon? As always, the Grand Véfour provides sublime surroundings: carved boiserie ceilings, painted allegories under glass, snowy napery and fragile Directoire chairs. The wine cellar is lavish, and the service is as elegant as the cosmopolitan clientele. A lunch menu is offered for €96.