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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Le Parvenu Restaurant Review: The level of polish, in both the cooking and the decorative style, is surprisingly high for a restaurant in Le Parvenu's neighborhood, a residential area a few blocks away from a suburban amusements area. Country French warmth was the goal in the design of the dining rooms, tucked into a charming cottage set back from the street. Owner-chef Dennis Hutley is an alumnus of the now-closed Versailles, which once set the standard for Continental-style restaurants in New Orleans. At Le Parvenu, Hutley doesn't change directions, either in the richness of the sauces or the classic way with ingredient combinations, although he's inventive enough to add his own imprint. A gossamer, Cognac-laced sauce moistens breaded lobster tails, layered with shrimp and lumps of backfin crab meat. A rack of Colorado lamb is broiled to a turn and served with a pungent plum sauce. More crab meat and shrimp turn up in a frothy bisque with mirliton (the local vegetable pear), all to delicious effect. The reception at Le Parvenu is warm, and table service is polished. The wine list includes an excellent collection of European and American labels.