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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED LeoMelina Ristorante Restaurant Review: Almost opulent in its décor, the multilevel dining room is graced by a fireplace, plush banquettes and a grand sweep of drapery. Opera and classical music performed by a soloist with piano accompaniment enliven many evenings. The kitchen is visible, but not audible, behind glass. Theres a sexy little bar up front, but positioned best of all is the terrace which affords a sweeping view of the waterfront. A change in management in 1999 took the restaurant out of the hands of the Varchetta family and the food has slipped. Stick to the simpler dishes, like steamed clams and mussels in a garlicky broth or grilled salmon sauced with Chardonnay and peppercorns. House-made spinach gnocchi are well-served by a light smoked salmon cream sauce, but lobster and shrimp both suffer from overcooking. The pricey wine list includes some well-aged bottles drawn from Italy and the West Coast. Desserts can be lush and lovely, like Belgian chocolate mousse or vanilla crème caramel.