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Lidia’s Pittsburgh Restaurant Review: Chef, cookbook author and restaurateur Lidia Bastianich presides over Lidia's Pittsburgh. To harmonize with the restaurant's Strip District location, architect David Rockwell constructed a soaring warehouse-referenced space, warmed by sunny earth tones, a floor-to-ceiling slate-faced fireplace and colorful blown-glass chandeliers. Large windows face onto busy Smallman Street. An exhibition kitchen opens to the pleasant bar. The kitchen features the flavors of Bastianich’s native Friuli, the far northeast corner of Italy, bordering on Slovenia and Hungary. You can have pasta with red sauce, but there are other items unique to that Italian region: fricos (fried Montasio cheese with savory fillings); and ground meat-stuffed cabbage braised with sauerkraut, tomatoes and garlic. Different terrain is covered with pork osso buco, polenta with rabbit ragù, and spaghetti Trapanese, dressed with a Sicilian pesto of almonds, tomatoes and basil. For dessert, there's the expected tiramisu, but also an appealing pumpkin torte with pumpkin ice cream and brown sugar sauce. The wine list encompasses all Italian labels.