| Jeremy Sewall first appeared on the radar of Boston foodies as the chef at Great Bay. In his own spot in Coolidge Corner, his experience shows in a daily printed Contemporary menu dotted with salt-cod beignets, panko-crusted cod with clams and the shellfish signature, Cousin Mark’s Dayboat Lobster, he brought with him from Michael Schlow's establishment---named for a fisherman relative of Sewall's, just as the name of the restaurant alludes to his Brookline-based bloodline. In the modern, two-room space---decorated so simply it would seem austere if not for the blazing wood oven---you'll get more than seafood, of course; roasted and grilled meats and pizzas abound as well. And after a year in business, the kitchen seems to have hit its stride, with a knack for showcasing the elegance of carefully tended seafood amid the stuff of comfy smoothness---polenta, fondues, root-based purées. |
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