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L’Initiale Restaurant Review: The building that houses this gastronomic restaurant used to be a bank---a testimony to the bustling commercial activity that once took place on Quebec City’s old harbor front. The switch to a high-end restaurant corresponds to the more relaxed yet stylish feel that the neighborhood displays today; this part of the harbor is now home to a cruise terminal where ocean liners stop almost every day in the late summer and fall. At L’Initiale, chef Yvan Lebrun distills a precise, colorful and nuanced cuisine, served by an attentive and careful, uniform-wearing staff. Fish dishes are especially successful, cooked delicate and tender as can be, and served with harmonious combinations of condiments and vegetables. Whether with seared foie gras (served with a dandelion-honey spicy reduction); a grapefruit, garlic and sumac flavored roast saddle of rabbit; or imaginative desserts, Lebrun creates artfully layered constructions that are visually impressive, if sometimes overly complex. The sommelier’s wine selections are solid and diversified, and include a couple of very interesting Quebec vintages. From the amuse-bouche to the after-dinner sweets, L’Initiale offers an intricate, well-orchestrated dining experience for special nights or leisurely lunches.