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L’Initiale Restaurant Review: The building that houses this gastronomic restaurant used to be a bank --- a testimony to the bustling commercial activity that once took place on Quebec City’s old harbor front. The switch to a high-end restaurant corresponds to the more relaxed yet stylish feel that the neighborhood displays today; this part of the harbor is now home to a cruise terminal where ocean liners stop almost every day in the late summer and fall. At L’Initiale, chef Yvan Lebrun distills a precise, colorful and nuanced cuisine, served by an attentive and careful, uniform-wearing staff. Fish dishes are especially successful, delicate and tender, and served with harmonious combinations of condiments and vegetables. Whether with seared foie gras served with cranberries, apple and brioche or ground cherries, carrots and spelt bread; roasted lamb with king mushrooms, romanesco sauce and garlic cream endives; or buckwheat apple confit with rosemary crumble, dried fruit crisp and local cheese, Lebrun creates artfully layered constructions with visual appeal. The sommelier’s wine selections are solid and diversified, and include a couple of very interesting Quebec vintages. From the amuse-bouche to the after-dinner sweets, L’Initiale offers an intricate, well-orchestrated dining experience for special nights or leisurely lunches.