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Little Bird Restaurant Review: Gabriel Rucker, the chef-owner of Le Pigeon, hasn't lost any steam with his second restaurant, which expands on the French theme in a more casual mood. Its downtown setting and late hours lend themselves to a light meal before or after a show or concert. The narrow storefront buzzes and hums with happy diners. Polished dark wood booths and tables sparkle with reflected light bouncing off white napery and a pressed metal ceiling. The menu offers classics such as steak tartare, mussels in a rich saffron broth, and sweetbreads with roasted mushrooms. Preparations aren’t fussy, just well executed. A nutty almond purée livens up a simple grilled trout, while a melting duck confit contrasts winningly with a garlic-scallion pistou. The selection of fresh vegetable sides always appeals. Or simply enjoy a juicy burger, a charcuterie board or cheese plate, or the roasted marrow bones. Cozy up to the long bar with one of Little Bird’s signature cocktails, concocted using French liquors. There’s also a sizable wine list, emphasizing --- no surprise --- French producers. For dessert, indulge with an ice cream and sorbet sampler, or stay traditional with apple tarte Tatin.