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Little Bird Restaurant Review: If you admire the creative approach of Gabriel Rucker, the chef-owner of Le Pigeon, but not that restaurant’s prices or formality, come to Little Bird, where the French theme is simpler but always well executed. With its downtown setting and late hours, the narrow storefront buzzes and hums with happy diners, many enjoying a meal before or after a show or concert. Polished dark wood booths and tables sparkle with reflected light. The menu changes regularly and may simultaneously include crab rolls, ricotta gnocchi with heirloom tomato purée, cassoulet, or a curried pork hand pie. Trout is a frequent star, often presented as a chicken-fried preparation with fresh herbs, radish and pickled carrots to wrap in lettuce leaves. Vegetable sides, such as truffle butter corn or a field greens salad with heirloom tomatoes, arugula, watercress and parsley, are fresh and satisfying. Or enjoy a juicy burger, a charcuterie board or cheese plate, or roasted marrow bones. Cozy up to the long bar with a signature cocktail concocted using French liquors, and all will be well. There’s a sizable wine list, emphasizing (no surprise) French producers. For dessert, indulge with an ice cream and sorbet sampler, or maintain tradition with apple tarte Tatin.