Lowbrow

Lowbrow Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant & chef: Montrose’s Lowbrow bar morphed into a major eatery with the addition of chef John Sheely, the chef/owner of the former fine dining Mockingbird Bistro that reigned in River Oaks for more than a decade. After closing his restaurant, Sheely settled here. The cozy yet still casual spot also experienced a makeover, and it’s now less pub-like.

Likes: Partner and sommelier Chris Ray’s expanded wine list includes some delightful bubbles and rosés.
Dislikes: What’s not to like at Lowbrow?

Food & Drinks: Sheely’s menu is a far cry from his Mockingbird Bistro days; it’s all about regional, accessible snacks and plates. Deviled eggs with crumbled smoked bacon and crème fraîche are an ideal bar snack or meal starter. There is a fine ground chuck burger with pommes frites and a crispy beef cutlet like grandma used to make, with black pepper gravy paired with green beans and mashed potatoes. Dishes are filling and relatively inexpensive, but Sheely pays homage to his earlier fine dining days with his popular black mussels swimming in white wine, and for an upcharge of $9, you can add foie gras to any selection. Weekend brunch offers local Katz’s coffee and mimosas along with such items as a scrambled egg burrito and eggs Benedict on a buttermilk biscuit.