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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Luca Ristorante Enoteca Restaurant Review: The dining room at The Fairmount hotel is where contemporary American cuisine got its start in San Antonio, but the space was never the same after Bruce Auden departed to seek his own bliss at Biga. The owners of Luca sensibly started from scratch, keeping the kitchen and wood-burning oven but recasting the seating in a new light---literally. The bar and dining areas are now one, the space is totally open to the street on two sides, and there is a new feeling of being part of the city scene. The kitchen is off to a good start with semolina-coated calamari fritti (a limoncello aïoli takes them beyond the knee-jerk tomato sauce category) and cubed tuna "sashimi." It can stumble with the egg-topped pizza; the flavors are good but the eggs often overcooked. And it sometimes forgets that a pasta dish is really about the pasta---not necessarily a contest to create the most brilliantly flavored puttanesca sauce. But braised short rib ravioli in a simple suga rosa is a paragon of restraint. Grilled salmon in a lobster brodo and spice-crusted pork loin with a sage Madeira sauce help round out the menu. Though not encyclopedic, the wine list has enough heft to justify following ristorante with enoteca, and the selections aren’t all from Chianti and California.