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Luce Restaurant Review: Luce is just one of Augusto Conte’s Italian spots in Charlotte, and the town likes his presence, whether it’s in his casual restaurants or this elegant classic. Treat yourself to tender calamari to start, served with a tangle of shredded and fried zucchini and accompanied by house-made aïoli enhanced with capers. Risotto, a tricky dish to master in a restaurant setting, is, perhaps, just a little too cooked in our view, although its flavors are nicely balanced. For something truly special, try the hand-rolled veal-stuffed ravioli, with its veal reduction sauce. For bigger appetites, or maybe on a brisk fall evening, it’s hard not to love the comfort of Luce’s osso buco. Plan on dessert here: perhaps chocolate mousse ganache. Very good espresso (even the decaf) comes to the table after dessert as it should, sans lemon zest on the side that some places offer. The mostly Italian wine list showcases some splendid bottles with an emphasis on reds and many at very good prices, although by-the-glass patrons will struggle to find an adequate choice.