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Luce Restaurant Review: Luce counts as an elegant classic among Augusto Conte’s many Charlotte restaurants. Start with tender calamari, served with a spicy marinara and a caper aïoli. For something truly special, try the hand-rolled veal-stuffed agnolotti, with a veal reduction sauce. The house makes its own ricotta, rendered fragrant with marjoram for the standard ravioli. House-made paste is turned out fresh daily. Lasagna bears a bolognese sauce and béchamel, not often seen in this country. Imported Italian gluten-free pasta is a possibility, too. For bigger appetites, it’s hard not to like the comfort of Luce’s osso buco. Plan on dessert, perhaps torta di cioccolato layering chocolate mousse and ganache, tiramisu, or homemade sorbeti and gelati. The very good espresso (even the decaf) comes to the table after dessert, as it should, sans the side of lemon zest that some places offer. The mostly Italian wine list notes vintages and emphasizes red wines, many at favorable prices; there are choices poured by the glass and the quartino. A half-bottle line-up offers options perhaps for the solo business diner, and wines for dessert are available.