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L'Univers de Christian Plumail Restaurant Review: Christian Plumail fights like a devil in this Niçois party site in all its splendor of the past, where he tries to make gastronomy and brasserie food live happily side by side. His cooking is one of the most straightforward and Provençal of any cuisine you'll find. His pigeon and foie gras à la cuiller, well-cooked catfish with green asparagus, and a chocolate palet are devilishly good. The service sometimes drags its feet in this décor that definitely needs resuscitating. Cellar disappointingly devoid of Provence wines. He may fight like a devil to make it good, but his set meal prices are angelic.