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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED L'Uraku Restaurant Review: L'Uraku is in the capable hands of Edison Ching who was sous chef under Hiroshi Fukui, the chef whose cooking L'Uraku was designed to feature. Uraku is a Japanese word for happiness, and the French article indicates this cooking combines French and Japanese influences. The insistence on utilizing local ingredients places the cuisine squarely in the Hawaiian regional tradition. Dishes have powerful flavors but a Japanese refinement. You get such things as papio (a local white fish) in a powerful hoyu-caper-butter sauce, or tataki ahi (seared tuna) on roasted vegetables topped with foie gras and kabayaki sauce. Endlessly inventive dishes include scallops on a ragoût of bacon and takana (pickled Japanese cabbage), braised short ribs of beef with miso and tempura soft-shell crab with Thai chili aïoli. The wine list is equally unusual---everything from Edmeades Zinfandel to a rare Bolognani Moscato Giallo. This has become one of Honolulu's finest restaurants, but it is still reasonably priced for the quality.