 Chef Alain Giraud is now a veteran of the Los Angeles restaurant scene. That’s not to imply he’s “old” of course, but only to note that we’ve followed him from Citrus to Lavande, and Bastide to Anisette Brasserie, and that we’re happy to see him, for the first time, in his own restaurant. The simplicity of the décor in no way reflects the level of the cooking, apparent in the dishes that arrive at the table, set with white tablecloths inside, beige outside. Giraud is fully in charge of the menu in his “home” kitchen, composed of French dishes with a slight California twist. We tried quite a few, and can report that everything is smartly thought out and executed, with great tastes and classic presentations. Soupe “au pistou” and the farm eggs with a light mushroom custard are must-haves, as is the pan-roasted baby squid served with pine nuts and marinated white beans in a basil emulsion. With the homemade terrine you’ll sample one of the breads produced by the in-house bakery. Vegetarians will go for the potato and rosemary tart, inspired by Giraud’s daughter, Camille, who is part of that group. Continue with the impeccable roasted sea bass, accompanied by clams, chorizo, baby spinach and piquillo in a broth that calls for a spoon to enjoy every last drop. Mushrooms risotto is cooked with mushroom jus, which enhances the flavors. Since Giraud’s daughter has a dish dedicated to her, his son has one as well: the duck, with both a roasted filet and leg confit in a charcutière sauce. The “cocotte” dish varies according to available ingredients and inspiration; the evening we went it was monkfish, and we liked the hint of curry in the sauce. Cheeses are paired with yet another bakery bread. A baker/pastry chef on staff, Noubar Yessayan, means that desserts change daily, but two classics are the chocolate soufflé and Alain’s famous lavender ice cream on meringue. The short wine list is reasonably priced, and the dishes on the menu are too, by the way. Fluffy homemade croissants and other pastries literally fly off the counter in the morning and at the weekend brunch, so you’d better arrive early or order them the day before.
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Maison Giraud Restaurant is one of our 2012
Hot 10 LA Restaurants | Top 10 LA French Restaurants
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Go behind the scenes of Maison Giraud restaurant! Watch our exclusive interview with chef/owner Alain Giraud. 
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