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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Maison Marconi Restaurant Review: A taste of old-fashioned Baltimore awaits you at Maison Marconi. The elegant, high-ceilinged dining room looks just as it has for nearly 80 years, with painted garlands and trompe l'œil medallions in white on celery-green walls illuminated by shimmering crystal chandeliers. The menu, too, is unchanged, offering European and American standards like lobster Cardinale bound with an airy white sauce, sweetbreads Sara Bernhardt with bits of ham and mushroom, and an excellent sole amondine, along with an inviting line-up of any-day fare like calves liver and onions, veal steak with ratatouille, and broiled lamb chops. Tuxedoed waiters provide décorous service, while foursomes of friends and business associates exercise the art of conversation. Marconi's offers an oasis of civility in the rough and tumble of urban life. Diners must arrive before 8 p.m. on weeknights and 9 p.m. on weekends.