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Mariscos Ensenada Restaurant Review: We like the help-yourself salsa bar---some of the choices are incendiary---the Latin American soccer spectacles on the wide-screen TV, the low-key crowd and the menu of Baja California-style seafood specialties. It’s all about affordable, tasty fare, not the setting. The ensalada de mariscos, or seafood salad, marries many briny flavors, and the traditional shrimp cocktail in lime juice with cilantro and chiles is substantial enough for a light lunch. Not that we ever quit there, since Mariscos Ensenada also turns out caldos, meal-size seafood soups, as well as shrimp and fish filets in many guises, from breaded and garlic-sauced to bathed in spicy diabla sauce. There also are fish tacos and burritos filled with shrimp and lobster.