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Marque Restaurant Review: Molecular gastronomy has its detractors because many see it as some sort of culinary mumbo-jumbo at best; messing around with good food, at worst. In the hands of a master, though, it can elevate the ordinary. Chef-owner Mark Best’s translation of his name into French becomes a metaphor for his menu, which turns around traditional expectations. Risky, but given Best’s consummate skill, the result is pure magic. Because some dishes may be new to diners, Best decides the selection. For lunch or dinner, guests choose between a four- or eight-course tasting menu. On Fridays, there is also a three-course lunch, and Saturday has an early-seating six-course tasting menu. Menu descriptions do not truly convey the elegance of the offerings: tomato and Parmesan gnocchi, kingfish ham with shiitake and mushroom broth, cottage cheese with beetroot oil and shisho may be followed by eggplant tartare with egg yolk jam and lamb jerky, perhaps with an optional cheese course. Then there’s dessert such as cherry and coconut snowball or caramelized tomato stuffed with twelve flavors, and star anise ice cream. It’s obvious that Best likes to surprise and challenge his diners’ taste buds with the use of edgy flavor combinations. The 400-plus selections wine list (many by the glass) is another highpoint. The easy way is to order the tasting menus with matched wines, but even if you don’t, staff have an excellent knowledge of the cellar and can advise well.