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Marque Restaurant Review: Molecular gastronomy has its detractors because many see it as some sort of culinary mumbo-jumbo at best; messing around with good food, at worst. In the hands of a master, though, it can elevate the ordinary. Perhaps the name of this restaurant sums up chef-owner Mark Best’s intention better than anything else. Translating his name into French becomes a metaphor for his menu, which turns around traditional expectations. A risky undertaking, but given Best’s consummate skill, the effect is pure magic. The menu’s descriptions do not truly convey the elegance of the offerings: a dish of striped trumpeter fish with green tomato, verjus, potato paper, fish milk and roe, or mushrooms with autumn leaves and sticks --- or, for that matter, mango with fresh curd, brown bread and mustard, It’s obvious that Best likes to surprise and challenge his diners’ taste buds with the use of edgy flavor combinations. He honed his talent overseas for several years in top French and English restaurants before opening Marque. The 400-plus selections wine list (30 by the glass) is another high point. Worth noting: The multi-course dégustation with matching wines is a treat worth savoring, while the Friday lunch prix-fixe, a three-course weekly changing market menu, should be marked in red on the calendar.