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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Martini House Restaurant Review: This handsome Pat Kuleto-styled bungalow blends lumberjack chic (zig-zag plank ceiling and candles riding an oak log suspended by fat chains above the dining room) with novel metal-works (antique corkscrews, faucets, petanque balls). A romantic glow emits from three fireplaces and artisan lamps resembling woven Wappo tribal baskets. Chef Todd Humphries’ sophisticated plates salute the seasonal, sourced ingredients therein. Teasers like Gallia melon shooters with lemon grass oil, squab foie terrine with black truffle, or intense matsutake broth provide lead-ins. Advance to meaty trumpet mushroom slabs under Parmesan foam with smoked bacon and ricotta gnocchi soft as the cheese itself; seared scallops and threat-level-orange tomato coulis accented with tarragon; and crisp skinned squab with confit legs complemented by luscious, bright giblet jus. Servers in command of their taste memories offer guidance in customizing course line-ups, dabbling between à la carte selections and various themed menus (e.g., a prix-fixe, a four-course tomato tasting and a mushroom extravaganza that flaunts chef Humphries’ fungus obsession). A crack wine list with rarities also includes categories such as “women winemakers we love” and “to screw or not to screw,” a send-up to cork-free bottles. Climax with coconut tapioca pudding and vanilla bean beignets, silky chocolate custard cake with salted caramel ganache or citrus-buttered blini with blueberry compote. An extensive outdoor patio with koi pond and underground Prohibition-era wine cellar offer alternate dining venues.