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Mateo Restaurant Review: This small neighborhood bistro unleashes Provençal-inspired comfort food at reasonable prices and features organic products from local farmers, ranchers and foragers. For starters, try the charcuterie plate, festooned with cured meats and house-made pâté served warm with crunchy crostini, or the tartine of locally sourced goat cheese, broccoli rabe pistou and salt-dusted roasted beets. Main courses range from old standbys like steak frites and boeuf bourguignon to offerings like risotto aux crevettes tricked-out with braised leeks, shrimp, asparagus and mascarpone. The restaurant places a strong emphasis on wine, spotlighting boutique bottlings from France and Italy. Desserts are light homemade ice creams and sorbets. Our most significant complaint is that the walls are brick, and when the restaurant is full, which is often, the noise level is excruciatingly high, making hearing a bit of a challenge.