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Matisse Cafe Restaurant Restaurant Review: Like a French stage setting, Matisse makes a surreal statement with its spacious dining rooms, curvilinear graphics and flowing designs. Even the flowers mimic the curlicues and sweeping lines of the interior. It's a three-level restaurant, but the basement is really the open kitchen, all functional and shiny. This makes a suitable backdrop for the foods prepared by chef-owner Fritz Siegfried, who is Swiss by birth, training and temperament. Look for such fine details as reduced veal stock that requires no unnecessary thickeners, twice-fried pommes frites, and an intense crème brûlée with berries. The menu changes seasonally, and may include filet mignon or rack of lamb with gratin dauphinois and French beans. Matisse caters to sedate matrons at lunchtime, power Washington at night---and anyone who appreciates haute settings and food.