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Matsuri Restaurant Review: An example of the Japanese genius for absorbing new into old appears in Matsuri's elegant, traditional sushi bar. Behind its counter, a microwave oven (used only for eel) signifies the readiness of its contents by displaying the message “enjoy your meal.” And you will, if you choose from the chef's sparkling array of fresh fish, shellfish and crustaceans for sashimi or sushi. Intriguing appetisers include edamame and, when available, warm, marinated turbot fins in a light broth---infinitely more appealing than they sound. The main area of the colourfully decorated restaurant is a large teppan room and you can mix and match by choosing grill in the sushi bar, or sushi in the teppan room. Continually evolving, the menu has new specials each season. Standards, and prices, are high, though set menus offer a good alternative. The wine list has some well-known names, most highly priced, but useful new-world bottles are from £20. Better still is fine saké, enjoyed well-chilled. In subtlety and variety, it compares with single malt whisky. A dozen are listed by the glass including a topnotch Kubota---pale, light and clean tasting, with a delicate grainy undertaste. Set lunch £35-£55, set bento boxes £25 and £35. Set dinner menus £35-£98.