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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Matto Restaurant Review: The cheesy, moist focaccia, redolent of Italian coastlines, that appears on your table as soon as you are seated is worth the trip to Matto. But to dine there just for it would shortchange the extensive and authentic trattoria menu of Neapolitan chef Franco Russo (formerly of Saracen). Sit outdoors on tall director’s chairs and elevated tables, or inside, under a white canopy, and settle in the romantic, beach-y atmosphere. Individual thin-crust pizzas with creative toppings emerge regularly from the voracious oven behind the bar; spicy orecchiette with fennel sausage mingle with strands of broccoli rabe, and the sautéed tilapia served with caramelized onions and capers tastes as if it was same-day caught. A traditional veal saltimbocca proves that the chef knows his classics. Arrive early with the family or linger at the bar and browse through an extensive selection of Italian wines.