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Meat & Potatoes Restaurant Review: Chef/owner Richard DeShantz cuts through pretension with his approachable, affordable gastropub concept. He personally executed most of the décor, described as “prohibition chic,” including the design of the butcher diagram cow logo and mural. Overall ambience adheres to the welcoming neighborhood pub concept, but with a cool vibe. And there’s no denying the sophistication of both food and drink. Even the cocktails are chef-driven, artisanal creations involving barrel-aging and hand-wrought garnishes. Of the two wine lists, one aims for economy while a second offers pricier chef’s favorites. Diners can opt for a burger (house-made bun and condiments) and a beer, or go full-out for foie gras, roasted bone marrow or sweetbreads risotto. Other signatures include mussels in different preparations, and Devils on Horseback --- bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with chorizo. Satisfying desserts change frequently, though a pot de crème, updated red velvet cake and liquid nitrogen-generated ice creams regularly make an appearance. Expect the place to be busy, bustling and high-decibel.