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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED NAMES Melange Restaurant Review: THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED NAMES TO M BISTRO. Completely re-concepted post-Katrina, the restaurant within the renovated former Maison Blanche department store chose an apt name, for the menu assembled dishes inspired by other great New Orleans restaurants as well as reflecting the city's rich cultural and ethnic gumbo. The concept did not last, and today, chef Matt Murphy has wisely reconsidered the menu to offer some of his standout dishes. Look for such offerings as a lobster mac ‘n’ cheese appetizer (it tastes much better than it sounds), Cajun-spiced sesame-crusted ahi, an herb-crusted rack of lamb and well prepared blackened redfish. Still, the place continues to try to find its niche in the local dining scene. The walls of the old Victor's (the restaurant’s original incarnation) were removed to allow an expansion of the space visually and functionally, and a handsome skylight spreads its glow across a tray ceiling. A dance floor enables patrons to take a whirl between courses, a nice supper club-style touch. The wine list separates old-world from new-world selections and categorizes them by weight; a few offerings by the glass are not exciting, but good choices are available by the bottle for this cuisine. Pontchartrain Vineyards, a local operation, even has a spot on the list.