* Click here for rating key
THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Mel's Anti-Bistro Restaurant Review: For proof that bistro cuisine can be fanciful and fun, look no further than Mel’s Anti-Bistro, a convivial and whimsically appointed hot-spot on Sixth Avenue's restaurant row. Charlie Master, a Denver restaurant stalwart, created a bona fide neighborhood gathering place, sans pretense, frequented by oenophiles and the food-savvy, both of which vie for space in the clamorous bar and dimly lit dining room festooned with grafittied pillars and walls pasted with antiquated food magazine covers. The accessible menu, embellished with playful twists, is flirty and eclectic. The kitchen's repertoire of ingredients and flavor pairings are ever-changing---evidence of a seasonally-inspired menu---but their efforts come together nicely. To wit: potato skins stuffed with salmon, caviar and crème fraîche; a grilled hanger steak, cooked to medium rare and served with a ball of Point Reyes blue cheese butter and crisp-edged, herb-specked french fries; or creamy macaroni and cheese pelted with pancetta. An impressive, globally-diverse wine list, including bottlings from the family winery, seals the deal.