When Menton opened it instantly caused a stir, not only because of the chef-owner Barbara Lynch, one of the most respected culinary figures in the city, but also because of the eye-popping (for Boston, anyway) prices: the chef's tasting is $145, plus an additional $105 for wine. But in the hands of executive chef Colin Lynch (no relation), rustic French-Italian cuisine is elevated to the next level. Behold: Langoustines wrapped in kataifi (crispy phyllo) with Greek yogurt, almond and honey. It's a dish at once elegant and almost childlike, an addictive combination of plump seafood and crispy crunch. Then there's the ash-crusted Cervena venison with kuri squash and pommes millefeuille. Lynch also works magic with foie gras and personally recommends the torchon of foie gras de canard. Desserts might include a coconut crémeux, or perhaps dark chocolate ganache with walnut, cranberry and balsamic. The wine list skips between France, Italy and Austria, with some choice American wines rounding out the list, particularly from California's Sonoma coast. Burgundy is also very well-represented. Food and wine this grand deserves the proper setting, and Menton delivers with its Murano glass chandelier in the entryway and Philippe Starck-designed "ghost" chairs in the private dining room. For a more intimate experience, eschew the main dining room for the chef's table, a glass-encased enclave, festooned with one long silver banquette, complete with a view of Menton's sleek kitchen. Service is graceful and unobtrusive.
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