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Meritage Restaurant Review: Chef Russell Klein, alum of W.A. Frost, is now his own boss and all-the-better for it as he’s freed up his creative juices in the shuttered Au Rebours kitchen. The cozy bistro’s décor (and fab view) remain unchanged, as does the homespun Gallic thrust of the menu, which puts classics like coq au vin and bouillabaisse on offer. But Klein sneaks in plenty of inventions that defy origin, such as his noteworthy venison coated in black trumpet mushrooms, served with a butternut squash gratin, Brussels sprouts petals and Seckel pear in red wine-beet sauce. Bonus: The list begins with $3, two bite “amusements” (think braised beef strudel) and concludes with equally diner-friendly mini-desserts, such as éclairs and espresso mousse. (But you can go whole hog for the frozen Grand Marnier soufflé bathed in orange-caramel sauce.) The café boasts a rolling cheese cart manned by servers who know their stuff.