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Meritage Restaurant Review

Hamm Building
410 St. Peter St. (Sixth St. W.) Send to Phone
St. PaulMN 55102
651-222-5670 | Menu
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Like its name, Meritage is blending at its best: a terrific chef, swell service and a sweet setting. Meritage Restaurant is one of our 2012 | Top 10 Twin Cities Brunch Restaurants | Top 10 Twin Cities Romantic Restaurants |

Cuisine

Open

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Tues.-Sat., Brunch Sat.-Sun.

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Chef Russell Klein, alum of W.A. Frost, is now his own boss and all-the-better for it as he’s freed up his creative juices in the shuttered Au Rebours kitchen. The cozy bistro’s décor (and fab view) remain unchanged, as does the homespun Gallic thrust of the menu, which puts classics like coq au vin and bouillabaisse on offer. But Klein sneaks in plenty of inventions that defy origin, such as his noteworthy venison coated in black trumpet mushrooms, served with a butternut squash gratin, Brussels sprouts petals and Seckel pear in red wine-beet sauce. Bonus: The list begins with $3, two bite “amusements” (think braised beef strudel) and concludes with equally diner-friendly mini-desserts, such as éclairs and espresso mousse. (But you can go whole hog for the frozen Grand Marnier soufflé bathed in orange-caramel sauce.) The café boasts a rolling cheese cart manned by servers who know their stuff.

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