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Michel Rostang Restaurant Review: Michel Rostang’s restaurant has the look and feel of a private mansion divided into two intimate wood-paneled dining rooms, decorated with collections of statuettes. Rostang learned the skills to prepare “the cuisine he adores” at Lasserre and Lucas Carton, two landmark Paris restaurants, where he apprenticed in the sixties. Firmly rooted in a farmland background, Rostang’s cuisine results from his constant search for superior products. Winter time he travels to Southern France exploring the black truffle market of Richerenches (Vaucluse), where via smelling and evaluating the powerful aromas he picks the top quality tubers. His appreciation of the truffle was what prompted his creation of his famous sandwich, consisting of thick slices of black truffle infusing the bread spread with salted butter, heated in a slow combustion stove. Quite a sandwich! His most successful recipes stem from his intuition combined with his taste for genuine and original products such as the fish from the Alpine lakes (from where he hails): the lake char fish, the perch, the noble and rare “omble chevalier,” unique to this region. His admirable Mieral blood sauce duckling is not to be missed: brought to the table hardly roasted, it is carved and coated with a sauce made from the reduction of the carcass with red wine, thickened with the duckling’s blood and foie gras. The legs, grilled, are served on the side. Rostang likes to revive old recipes that he rejuvenates to please the contemporary palate, like the poultry cooked in “Vin Jaune” (a strong, amber yellow wine made in the Jura mountains, with late harvest grapes, aged in oak casks), slowly stewed in a casserole. It is as classical as it gets, as are the homemade quenelles and many other recent recipes, always strictly faithful to the product. In this temple of the French traditional cuisine, you can rightly expect the service to be perfect and the wine list impressive. Chief sommelier Alain Ronzatti, who heads an impressive cave with collector bottles, is at ease when pairing wine with the meal. As for the pastry chef, Adrien Bozzolo, he will surprise you with cigar-shaped biscuits stuffed with brandy mousseline and sided by Marsala ice cream. Michel Rostang has been around opening restaurants in Santa Monica (California) and in the Antilles in Anguilla, but is acting now as a consultant. His Parisian bistros --- Dessirier, Bistrot d’à Côté Flaubert, Jarasse, Café des Abattoirs and L’Absinthe --- attract a large clientele who can appreciate Rostang style at a more affordable price.