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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Midi Restaurant Review: The flouncy bar has an amusement-park look, and the rest of the so-called Provençal décor is worthier of Coral Gables than the Côte d'Azur. Midi's kitchen, long directed by French chefs, is in flux of late. Innovative combinations and produce-heavy dishes promise fresh alternatives in this deep-fried, cream-sauced town. The Salad Midi is a rosy-colored starter of current tomatoes, watermelon, radishes and basil vinaigrette. Main courses run the likes of salmon with vanilla bean sauce and black beans, and blackened filet mignon with tomatillo-crawfish relish and mushroom hash. Service is brisk and informal, well-mannered without being haughty, and the wine list covers the major French regions well.