 This 85-seat eatery smack in the center of Greenwich Village has history on its side: since the 1930s, this bistro-like restaurant has been home to many a poet and writer, sports stars and celebrities. Its Italian menu was simply an afterthought. But then restaurateur Keith McNally (Pastis, Morandi, Balthazar) took over. After a loving restoration of the place, he revamped the menu too, turning it into an old-school palace of meat. Not that non A-listers can easily get a reservation. But if you’re one of the privileged few, you’re in for a good meal: enjoy a memorably juicy caramelized onion-topped “Black Label” burger (thanks to meat master Pat LaFrieda) and two steaks---a côte de boeuf and a strip---that could rival those at some of the city’s better steakhouses. Menu standouts also include a sumptuous short rib and brisket blend, a tender veal chop, and for the seafood lover, brandade-stuffed squid. The weekend brunch, which serves egg dishes, the burger, and a steak, among other entrées, is a slightly easier time to nab a table. The wine list spans the globe and the cocktail list, as one would expect, sticks to the classics.
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