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Mockingbird Bistro Restaurant Review: Owner-chef John Sheeley specializes in what most Americans crave: robust portions of artistically prepared food that tastes even better than it looks. Cases in point: bible-thick tuna steaks grilled with a light pepper crust and served with a salad of arugula, roasted red pepper and summer corn; grilled wild salmon with tomato-basil vinaigrette; Berkshire pork chop with foie gras braised cabbage, wild mushrooms and potato purée. Even dishes as simple as a salad of Bibb lettuces and Texas goat cheese with toasted pine nuts, or a Texas “1015” onion soup with Gruyère crostini are downright inspiring. Top off the meal with a lemon tart with crème anglaise, or the warm bittersweet chocolate torte with berries and mango sorbet. The well-crafted wine list is affordably priced. River Oaks folks come for a leisurely Sunday brunch of smoked salmon Benedicts, omelets and truffled pommes frites.