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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Modern Steak Restaurant Review: Sam Fox has built his empire on trendy, casual dining, yet here is proof that he also understands classic, sophisticated tastes. It looks like a Fox production, thanks to the glitzy interior with its ceiling of latticework and mirrors hung with glittery chandeliers, and an open kitchen framed in wine racks. And let’s be clear: it’s expensive ($46 for an à la carte 12-ounce filet, for example). Yet this is not your stuffy overfed grandfather’s steakhouse. Chef Andrew Ashmore is serious about every plate, from salad to seafood. Juicy Sonoma rack of lamb sweetened in honey jus is expertly cooked, and it’s obvious that sides---mascarpone creamed corn or sweet potato purée capped in burnt marshmallow---aren't afterthoughts. Still, like the décor, there’s some fun theater in the menu, such as a foot-long Kobe beef hot dog for sharing with a glass of Albariño or Super Tuscan from the sommelier-chosen list. If you’ve still got room for dessert, you won’t go wrong with the traditional choices like molten chocolate cake, but frankly, we’re just as happy to finish with another cocktail, perhaps a Modern Swizzle in a rousing blend of cane rum, lime juice, snow, raspberry and orange bitters, elderflower and soda.