 Molyvos Restaurant Review: Fragments of ancient urns, earth tones and wood paneling appropriately adorn this bustling, upscale Greek taverna owned by the Livanos family, operators of the seafood restaurant, Oceana. The kitchen brings new lightness to Greek classics with no flavor loss: Greek spiced lamb spare ribs with thyme-honey ouzo glaze; Gulf shrimp with vegetables, rice and herbs, wrapped in crispy phyllo; grilled octopus with peppers, tomatoes, mixed baby greens and lemon and olive oil emulsion; pan-fried sardines with fennel, Meyer lemon and toasted garlic; and rolled pasta stuffed with spiced short ribs and three cheese cream sauce. There is something for every taste from adventurous to conservative, but be forewarned: a meal at Molyvos makes even the most staid homebody long to travel to the Greek Isles. The service is attentive, the ambience lively and there's an impressive collection of Greek wines and ouzo.
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