: This Chinatown favorite always seems to have a line out the door waiting for tables. In fact, it is this restaurant that introduced many L.A. restaurant-goers to the joys of Chinese seafood cooking, which is uniformly tasty here: juicy shrimp coated with a special salt; stir-fried rock cod in a sweet-and-sour sauce; double-fried scallops; steamed rock cod with soy sauce; and, best of all, the generous, messy crab in either black bean or garlic sauce.

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