 The Cavallo Point resort and its gem of a restaurant were created in restored barracks on majestic old military grounds at the northern base of the Golden Gate Bridge. In each of the two intimate main dining rooms, tables are spaced for comfort under a restored, tin-plated ceiling. Chef Joseph Humphrey delivers distinctive, locally-sourced California cuisine in small plates. A chef's choice, ten-course tasting menu is a good deal at $75. Because so much of the menu is seasonal, dishes change all the time. They might include an inventive plate of fowl eggs (quail, pheasant and partridge), poached, hard-boiled and fried, respectively, and presented elegantly on a long, narrow plate, or flavorful roasted halibut served over fig leaves with sassafras and an orange-fennel brandade. Squab and lobster salad with savoy spinach and Zinfandel marmalade manages to be complex, light and savory. An extensive international wine list features many notable choices under $40, and the sommelier provides expert guidance. Watermelon carpaccio with salt-and-pepper ice cream and butterscotch soufflé demonstrate the kitchen’s inventive, visually delightful approach to dessert.
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