You're in Raymond Chandler territory at Musso & Frank Grill. (The famed detective fiction author was just one of many celebrity patrons, and he even mentioned the restaurant in his novel "The Big Sleep.") This Hollywood landmark originally opened in 1919, though it moved next door into its current digs in 1934. The dining room has a clubby look and feel, with white tablecloths and red booths along the wall. If nothing else, come for a Manhattan at the bar. When dining, expect brusque service and such old-fashioned favorites as grilled steaks and chops, sauerbraten, chicken potpie, short ribs and cannelloni, or try the seafood chiffonade salad full of shrimp and other delights from the sea. All made the old-fashioned way. The all-day breakfast menu includes omelets and pancakes, called flannel cakes (only served until 3 p.m.). You haven't been to Hollywood if you haven't been to Musso's, but park in the rear to avoid the street scene's sometimes overly grunge personality.
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