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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Naissance Restaurant Review: The tapas craze that shook other American cities is finally reaching fever pitch in Providence, and Naissance is proof positive. Several years ago, a restaurant that dances to a worldly beat on Federal Hill with small plates as a hook wouldnt have stood a chance. Now chef Kerry Blum draws a curious and often chic crowd into a room whose Roman pillars and warm hues of Dijon, brass and tropical seas are but a hint of the dramatics to come. The menu is almost diner-ishly large, and its size can lead to unfocused dishes---like coconut-crusted shrimp with a too-sweet honey and mango glaze. But, more often than not, Blum nudges a broadly Italian menu towards a tasty brand of globalism. Pumpkin and brandy bisque is all earthen-sweet depth. Sea bass is texture-savvy with a dredging of sesame seeds, and its plum-ginger sauce is sprightly. Desserts like chocolate ravioli and crêpes with black cherries and mascarpone are uniformly yummy. Sexy bar and live music in a separate room, as well.