Nakatani

Nakatani Restaurant Review:

Former underling of Hélène Darroze, the Japanese-born Shinsuke Nakatani presides over this restaurant in the chic 7th arrondissement. Only 16 seats inhabit the white and uncluttered dining room. In his open kitchen, Nakatani prepares subtle dishes. Vegetables are washed at 120 Fahrenheit degrees to develop umami recognizable by its agreeable and persistent aftertaste. The menu is carte blanche, showcasing neatly cut vegetables and elaborated textures. Botargo-crumbed skipjack fillet is served with cockles and chicory; the roasted sea bass with lettuce and herbs vinaigrette; and the horse sirloin steak with potatoes, watercress purée and blue stalk mushrooms in an onion and Champagne juice. For dessert, try the soft biscuit flavored with marrow, Mandarin and vanilla. Terse yet interesting wine list.