Since 1969, restaurant, hotel, travel & other witty reviews by a handpicked, worldwide team of discerning professionals—and your views, too.
NEW

Navy Strength

2505 2nd Ave., Ste. 102 (Wall St.) Send to Phone
No phone
In Belltown, a take on a tiki bar that’s tactful instead of tacky.

Cuisine
Open
Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Open late
Features

* Click here for rating key

Navy Strength Restaurant Review

: Few tiki bars in the history of the faux-Polynesian drinking phenomenon have been described as classy joints, but if ever a place deserves to be, it’s this Belltown spot. In place of gaudy plastic flowers and kitschy knickknacks, smart turquoise colors and nautical accents evoke an adult version of tiki’s normally adolescent ambience. Similarly, the cocktail menu brings tiki from novelty to serious contender. Along with the classics, there are drinks like the namesake Navy Strength (Cognac, rum and roasted tropical fruit), while the Travel section includes a Mint Chutney Mojito. Cuisine continues the narrative, with a fish sauce Caesar salad, a beef heart tartare and duck liver pâté. Dessert, fittingly, cools off the heat of the tropics with banana sorbet (and rum caramel, naturally) or mint ice cream. As might be expected from a tiki bar, the beer and wine lists are short, with just four options each, though the selections are in a variety of intriguing styles, such as the Txakolina rosé.



AMERICA'S TOP RESTAURANTS

Discover the best female chefs, top pizzerias and stellar seafood restaurants with GAYOT's Top 10 lists of the best restaurants in America.