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Nikki Beach Restaurant Review: In the early 1980s, when South Beach was still referred to as “God’s waiting room” (due to its predominantly octogenarian population), Jack Penrod’s sprawling, casual Oceanside complex specialized in beach volleyball and similar entertainment aimed at luring college break vacationers from Ft. Lauderdale. Re-invented as trendy, exclusive Nikki Beach in the mid-1990s, it lured Sobe’s new glam crowd. At this point, Nikki Beach isn’t a place; it’s a brand, with 18 resto-lounges worldwide, plus Nikki hotels, condos, et al to come, and the original has lost, along with its uniqueness, much of its cachet as a celebrity magnet. But though today’s revelers may be mainly model wannabes, it’s a good-looking enough crowd that sightseers can fantasize about past glories-notorieties. As for its food, Nikki was never known as a gourmet palace, but Sunday brunch is still a fun, hedonistic experience---if diners avoid breakfasting in bed. The outdoor tables on Nikki’s extensive beach patio are a much more civilized setting to enjoy the decadent all-you-can-eat spread of sushi, salads, seafood, satays, pasta, cold cuts, desserts and breakfast fare.