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Nola Restaurant Review: Most of the food at chef Emeril Lagasse's French Quarter establishment holds its own against the brassy décor. However, savoring the kitchen's handiwork requires a liberal tolerance for rich ingredients and bold spices. There are flavorful surprises with most dishes, such as the grilled Gulf fish finished with truffle butter, or the candied pecans gracing the hickory roasted duck. “Miss Hays Stuffed Chicken Wings” is a perennial favorite. Cast all of your nutrition ideas to the wind when it comes to dessert, and get ready for the “Warm Ooey Gooey Cake,” which translates as a moist chocolate cake with toasted coconut and marshmallow, topped with coffee ice cream. The wine list is serviceable, but it does not live up to the reputation of the flagship Emeril’s restaurant in the Warehouse district. Service is professional.