North River

North River Restaurant Review:

With a chef who logged time in the kitchens at Mas, Picholine and Momofuku Ko, one would expect to find complicated, fussy fare at this East Village eatery. Not so. Start with creamy chicken liver mousse or the boldly flavored grilled fish tacos before moving on to the comforting mains. Boneless fried chicken is so precious (in a good way) that it nearly falls apart when handled. Lamb stew, bobbing with polenta, olives and rosemary, is the perfect antidote to a cold winter evening. Finish with a slice of ultra-rich German chocolate cake. Pair your meal with a selection from the short list of wines by the glass or one of a dozen or so creatively concocted house cocktails.