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Nostrana Restaurant Review: Chef Cathy Whims (formerly of trend-setting Genoa) has cultivated a collaborative relationship with local farmers, even working with them to grow Italian specialty crops such as borlotti beans, greens and wild fennel. Nostrana is known for the thin, chewy pizzas that emerge in rapid succession from the wood-fired oven, topped with everything from Manila clams to lemon oil. Pair one with the eponymous salad, a bowl of radicchio tossed in a Caesar-style dressing, for a satisfying meal. The menu changes frequently but always offers temptations such as linguine with cantaloupe or braised rabbit leg with chive-mashed potatoes. For dessert, go for one of the fruit crisps baked in the pizza oven. The mostly Italian wine list offers interesting and well-priced selections, including a couple of flights; labels from local Cameron Winery are well worth trying. Cocktails employ unusual Italian apéritifs. The strip mall setting belies the restaurant’s warm atmosphere; service is pleasant and family-friendly, and long tables accommodate large groups.