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21 Piccadilly Send to Phone
020-7437 020

Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.
  • Dress code: Ties suggested
  • Reservations suggested

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Oak Room Restaurant Review

: Marco Pierre White has hung up his toque to become a full-time restaurateur and left the Oak Room to the charge of his former head chef, Robert Reid, who was without doubt already in charge on the occasions when the master was absent, setting up the Mirabelle, Titanic, and more. So it had to be bad luck that on the night we went, the cooking was not as consistently polished as on previous occasions, for Robert Reid is a very accomplished and experienced chef. The menu has changed little, and all those familiar dishes still appear, as they do in various of his other places---like terrine of foie gras with Sauternes gelée. But back to the Oak Room, a splendid if slightly overpowering restaurant with its high ceiling, Edwardian grandeur, lime-oaked wood panels and huge glass chandeliers, now somewhat relieved by oil paintings chosen by Marco Pierre White. The matre d’ is superb, a charming Frenchman whose concerned but not too serious approach lightens what might otherwise seem an oppressive temple of gastronomy. A ’soup’ of shellfish as an amuse-gueule with diced vegetables was a little too buttery and rich. The millefeuille of crab and tomato, however, was a real treat, creamy without being cloying, but the terrine of leeks came with large chunks of truffle on top, which did nothing for what was otherwise a remarkable terrine. Lobster was served with a garlic-heavy sauce, although the lobster was perfectly cooked, even if the sauce was biting. However, fillet of lamb was not so well done. A dessert of caramelised pineapple with vanilla and spice is another well-known Oak Room favourite, but was overdone. Perhaps stick to the lemon tart classic. The cheese board is good and offers a wide range. The wine list is impressive, as you would expect, and also astronomical in price. A meal here is an expensive occasion, and at these prices, the cooking should be thoroughly consistent. Set 3-course lunch £30; set dinners £55, £80, £90.


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