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The Oceanaire Seafood Room Restaurant Review: Proving that a landlocked city can indeed swim with the sharks, The Oceanaire Seafood Room nets diners hook, line and sinker. Sophisticated, clubby and spacious, this homage to everything aquatic is packed to the gills with well-heeled couples, moneyed tourists, and pinstriped power brokers making big city deals. Join the school of big fish and reap the rewards of an expansive menu full of seaworthy possibilities. The fish is flown in daily and the menu changes nightly to reflect what's fresh: Alaskan halibut, Canadian diver scallops, Icelandic arctic char, Mediterranean anchovies, and opakapaka from Hawaii, for example, prepared grilled or broiled or crowned with stylish flourishes. The restaurant's raw bar features nearly a dozen species of oysters plus live cold-water lobsters, all priced per pound, and delivered to the table with pomp and circumstance, and there are side dishes galore. There's nothing fishy about the grand shellfish platter, a towering skyscraper of crab, lobster, shrimp, oysters and mussels, and we like the nod to retro seafood stalwarts like oysters Rockefeller, crab Louis, and escargots Bourgogne. The cocktail roster celebrates our passion for the classics---grasshoppers and Singapore slings---for instance, while the cellar-worthy wine list is purely modern.