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Odette's Restaurant Review: Londoners who believe the far north begins at Regent's Park are pleasantly surprised by this bastion of civilisation just beyond that frontier. The restaurant is now owned and run by Bryn Williams who gained fame by winning a professional contest on TV and cooking for the Queen. The dining room with some startling wallpaper opens onto the street at the front and leads into a conservatory at the back. Williams champions British (and Welsh where possible) ingredients, so the menu is seasonally led. He’s a highly skilled chef, with a penchant for the theatrical: try seared curried scallops with cauliflower and coconut soup and salted grapes to start and quail stuffed with chestnuts and foie gras, roasted salsify, Savoy cabbage and Madeira sauce as proof. The well-chosen wine list has a decent range by the glass. Set 2-course lunch £12, 3 courses £16; set Sun. lunch 2 courses £24, 3 courses £29; Tasting Menu £58, Vegetarian menu £45 (whole table).