THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Odyssey

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Odyssey Restaurant Review:

THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CLOSED Odyssey offers a sexy-chic sanctuary to counterbalance Windsor’s treacley town square. It’s intimate: ten tables aglow in amber track lamps and candles, or ten stools at an under-lit bar counter. Cool flicks, on mute, like "Bullitt" or the French-noir "Rififi" will steal your gaze away from your date to the back wall where they’re projected. A lean, sophisticated menu seduces: starters like sardines with fennel and arugula, a trio of elegant pizzas, and mains such as wild salmon with chanterelles. Salting is handled with finesse. Sharp platings and a tony vibe cue diners to expect more. But Odyssey hasn’t quite arrived. Roasted beet tartare three ways---minced to form a timbale, microplaned, and puréed---looks gorgeous but tastes redundant. Too much slathered-on mustard erases any complexity of a tall sirloin burger encasing truffles, short ribs and foie gras; tasty fries accompany, but only those protruding above the metal cup’s rim avoid a steam bath. And there’s acidity to the fava bean tortelli with lobster that belies the natural sweetness of lobster and summer tomatoes. Hopefully more time journeying will lead Odyssey to its desired destination.