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Oleana Restaurant Review: Chef Ana Sortun's singular brand of cooking reconciles the cuisines of Turkey, Spain, Morocco, Italy and Armenia. Signature dishes include bean walnut pâté, intense fried mussels with hot peppers and cool tarator sauce, and grilled lamb with fava moussaka. Bright, lush vegetables come straight from Siena Farms, which is run by Sortun's family. Meanwhile, the wine list is more traditionally European (and Californian), though speckled with bottles from Greece and Lebanon. Pastry chef Maura Kilpatrick's fanciful, flowery desserts de-familiarize their local ingredients in tantalizing ways; she has a special way with frozen concoctions, from her take on Sicilian almond granita and her revival of baked Alaska, spiced up with passion fruit caramel, to ice cream flavors like walnut-brown butter and quince. Exotic Near Eastern accents spice up the Zen-garden serenity of the cozy two-room space and shady outdoor patio, always crowded with Cantabrigian intelligentsia---whose smarts are, after all, evident in their choice of restaurant.