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Oleana Restaurant Review: Chef Ana Sortun's singular brand of Eastern Mediterranean cooking reconciles the cuisines of Turkey, Spain, Morocco, Italy and Armenia. Signature dishes include lamb souvlaki, chickpea terrine, whipped fava and beet tabbouleh, and Persian-style crispy duck with black-eyed peas and lentils. Bright, lush vegetables come straight from Siena Farms, which is run by Sortun's family. Meanwhile, the wine list is more traditionally European (and Californian), though speckled with bottles from Greece, Lebanon and Slovenia. Fanciful desserts de-familiarize their local ingredients in tantalizing ways --- from a take on almond cremolata with sweet candied kumquat and warm citrus soup, and a revival of baked Alaska, sweetened with coconut ice cream and spiced with passion fruit caramel, to Turkish style profiteroles with brown butter crème. Exotic Near Eastern accents spark the Zen-garden serenity of the cozy two-room space and shady outdoor patio, always crowded with Cantabrigian intelligentsia, whose smarts are, after all, evident in their choice of restaurant.