A floor below its more formal sister restaurant, the Café at Oliveto feels like a delicious respite from the bustle of Rockridge, which is all the more impressive given that several of its intimate tables actually sit outside on the edge of the sidewalk. From inside, a simple but satisfying menu of Italian cucina povera provides seamless transition from café breakfast to panini lunch to informal dinner. All of the hot dishes---from breakfast pizza to bread pudding---emerge from the glowing mouth of the wood-burning oven that dominates the cozy, cave-like dining room. Caramel-sweet roasted tomatoes and Brussels sprouts that manage rich nuttiness far beyond their size are just a few of the antipasti showcasing seasonal produce. It's easy to fill up on house-made salumi, but it's worth saving room for hot entrées such as a butternut squash gratinata that puts mac and cheese to shame, or a cassuela of spicy pork sausage and meltingly soft chickpeas. Though she sticks to the rustic Italian theme, pastry chef Jenny Raven gives away a hint of her innovative spirit in desserts like sweet buns with pine needle ice cream. Some dishes suffer for it (like a too-grainy almond milk granita), but others soar (as in an other-worldly fig upside-down cornmeal cake). And to wash it all down? Wine and cocktail selections show thoughtfulness and expertise, and it's hard to resist an espresso from one of the few Faema E61 machines in the world. |